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5 Worst Ways to Prune Lavender (And How to Avoid Them)

5. Ignoring Lavender Variety-Specific Needs

A landscaped garden with long beds containing different varieties of lavender, illustrating the importance of identifying the specific type, as how you prune a lavender plant can vary between English, Spanish, and French varieties for best results.

For three straight years, I kept buying different lavender plants and wondering why some thrived while others died horrible deaths. Turns out, I was treating all lavender like it was the same plant.

That’s like assuming all dogs need the same care whether they’re a Chihuahua or a Great Dane. Each lavender variety has completely different pruning needs, and ignoring this fact cost me probably$200 in dead plants before I figured it out.

English vs. French vs. Spanish Lavender Pruning

English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is the tough guy of the lavender world. These varieties like Hidcote and Munstead can handle more aggressive pruning and bounce back like champs.

I can safely remove up to one-third of English lavender growth after the first bloom flush in early summer. They’re forgiving if you mess up the timing by a few weeks either way.

French lavender (Lavandula dentata) is the drama queen. These plants with their distinctive toothed leaves need gentle, frequent trimming rather than one big haircut.

Spanish lavender (Lavandula stoechas) falls somewhere in between but leans toward the sensitive side. Those cute little “rabbit ear” bracts are actually quite delicate and don’t respond well to heavy pruning.

I learned to identify each type before I even think about grabbing my shears now.

Climate-Specific Considerations for Your Region

Zone 5-6 gardeners like me have a narrow pruning window – basically late June through early July, and that’s it. Wait too long, and winter will kill your plants.

Gardeners in zones 8-9 have way more flexibility with timing since their growing seasons are longer. They can often get away with light fall pruning that would be deadly in my climate.

Humidity levels also matter more than I realized. My friend in humid Georgia has to prune more frequently to prevent fungal issues, while I can get away with less frequent trimming in my dry climate.

Desert gardeners face completely different challenges – they need to time pruning around extreme heat periods rather than cold snaps.

Bloom Timing Variations and Pruning Schedules

English lavender typically blooms once in early summer, making pruning timing pretty straightforward. I prune right after that first flush fades, usually around July 4th weekend.

French and Spanish lavender are repeat bloomers – they can flower multiple times throughout the growing season. This means multiple light pruning sessions rather than one major trim.

I keep a garden journal now tracking when each variety blooms in my specific microclimate. What works in books doesn’t always match reality in my backyard.

Some of my Spanish lavender varieties don’t even start blooming until August, which completely threw off my pruning schedule the first year I grew them.

Hardy vs. Tender Varieties and Their Requirements

Hardy English varieties can handle aggressive pruning because they’re built to survive harsh conditions. I can be a bit rough with Hidcote and it just keeps coming back stronger.

Tender varieties like most French and Spanish lavender need babying. Light, frequent trimming works way better than trying to shape them with one big pruning session.

I actually use different tools for hardy vs. tender varieties – regular bypass pruners for the tough English types, and small floral snips for the delicate French varieties.

Cold hardiness also affects recovery time after pruning. Hardy varieties bounce back in 2-3 weeks, while tender ones might take 6-8 weeks to show new growth.

Matching Techniques to Local Growing Conditions

My clay soil retains moisture longer, so I have to be more careful about pruning timing to prevent root rot issues. Sandy soil gardeners can probably get away with later pruning.

Wind exposure in my garden means I need to leave more foliage on plants for winter protection. Sheltered gardens can handle more aggressive pruning.

I’ve learned to observe each plant’s individual response rather than following generic advice. Some of my lavender plants are just naturally more vigorous and can handle heavier pruning.

Microclimates within my own yard mean different pruning schedules even for the same varieties. The south-facing bed gets pruned two weeks earlier than the north side.

I now walk through my garden and assess each plant individually before making any cuts. It takes longer, but my success rate has improved dramatically.

Conclusion

Proper lavender pruning doesn’t have to be intimidating! By avoiding these five critical mistakes, you’ll keep your lavender plants healthy, fragrant, and blooming beautifully for years to come. Remember, gentle timing and clean cuts are your best friends when it comes to lavender care.

Start implementing these techniques this season, and watch your garden transform into the Pinterest-worthy oasis you’ve always dreamed of.

Your future self (and your lavender) will thank you for taking the time to learn proper pruning methods now!

What do you think?

Written by The Home Growns

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