The Home Growns
2. Cutting Into Old, Woody Growth
I still cringe when I think about the day I decided to “rejuvenate” my five-year-old lavender bush by cutting it back to bare wood. Spoiler alert: it never grew back.
That expensive lesson taught me everything I know about lavender’s growth habits. And trust me, once you understand how these plants actually work, you’ll never make this devastating mistake.
Understanding Lavender’s Unique Growth Pattern
Lavender doesn’t regenerate from old wood like roses or other shrubs do. This was news to me when I first started gardening!
The plant grows in a very specific way – new shoots only emerge from green, flexible stems. Once a stem turns brown and woody, it’s basically done producing new growth.
Think of it like this: the woody parts are the plant’s skeleton, and the green parts are where all the action happens. Cut into the skeleton, and you’ve just killed that entire section of the plant.
I wish someone had explained this to me before I went crazy with my pruning shears that fateful spring morning.
Why Hard Pruning is a Death Sentence
Hard pruning means cutting back more than one-third of the plant or cutting into brown, woody stems. It’s basically plant murder, and I’ve done it more times than I care to admit.
Established lavender plants can’t handle aggressive cutting like other perennials. When you cut into old wood, those stems simply won’t produce new shoots.
Instead of bouncing back with fresh growth, you’ll end up with dead, brown sticks poking out of the ground. The plant puts all its energy into trying to survive rather than producing new foliage or flowers.
My neighbor calls it “lavender suicide by pruning shears,” and honestly, that’s pretty accurate.
How to Tell Green Growth from Woody Stems
This skill took me years to develop, but it’s absolutely crucial for successful lavender maintenance. Green stems are flexible and bend easily when you touch them.
Woody stems are brown, rigid, and snap rather than bend. They often have a papery bark-like texture that flakes off when you rub it.
The transition zone is where it gets tricky. Sometimes you’ll see stems that are greenish-brown – these are in the process of becoming woody but might still have some life left.
I always do the “bend test” now. If a stem bends without breaking, it’s safe to cut. If it snaps like a twig, leave it alone.
Recovery Techniques for Over-Pruned Plants
If you’ve already made this mistake (welcome to the club!), don’t panic completely. Some plants can recover if you act quickly.
Stop cutting immediately and give the plant the best care possible. Water regularly but don’t overdo it, and add some balanced fertilizer to encourage any remaining green growth.
Remove only the completely dead sections – anything that’s clearly brown and brittle. Leave anything that shows even a hint of green.
I’ve had maybe 30% success rate with recovery, so don’t get your hopes up too high. But it’s worth trying before you dig up the whole plant.
Prevention Strategies for Healthy Growth
The best defense is keeping your lavender from getting too woody in the first place. Annual light pruning is way better than waiting years and then going crazy with the shears.
I now trim my lavender every single year right after the first bloom flush. Just a light haircut – maybe removing the top third of green growth.
Deadheading spent flowers throughout the growing season also helps maintain young, flexible stems. It’s like giving your plant regular maintenance instead of waiting for a major overhaul.
Think of it as preventive medicine for your lavender. A little attention each year beats plant CPR later.
Think you can’t mess up young lavender plants? Think again! Click next to discover how I nearly killed my brand-new lavender starts with overzealous pruning – and the simple rule that could have saved me $50 and a lot of heartache.
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