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5 Worst Ways to Prune Lavender (And How to Avoid Them)

A close-up of a gardener in a sunny garden using a pair of orange and black handled pruning shears to carefully prune lavender plant stems, encouraging healthy growth and harvesting the fragrant purple flowers.

Did you know that improper pruning kills more lavender plants than harsh winters? It’s true! As someone who’s made every pruning mistake in the book, I can tell you that lavender is surprisingly finicky when it comes to trimming.

Whether you’re tending to your urban balcony garden in Manhattan or maintaining sprawling lavender beds in your Dallas backyard, these purple beauties require specific care. One wrong cut can turn your fragrant, Instagram-worthy lavender into a woody, lifeless mess.

But don’t worry – I’ve learned from my mistakes so you don’t have to make them yourself!

1. Pruning Too Late in the Season

A leggy lavender plant with a dead, woody base and a few sparse purple flowers, showing the negative result of not knowing when to properly prune lavender plant to maintain its shape and health.

Oh boy, do I have a story for you about this one. Last October, I was feeling all productive and decided to give my lavender plants a “nice trim” before winter hit.

What a disaster that turned out to be.

I lost three beautiful English lavender plants that winter, and I’m pretty sure it was because of my terrible timing. Let me save you from making the same expensive mistake I did.

Why Fall and Winter Pruning Kills Lavender

Here’s the thing about late season pruning – it’s basically like sending your lavender plants into winter naked. When you cut lavender in fall or winter, you’re removing the protective growth that helps insulate the plant’s crown and root system.

Fresh cuts don’t have time to heal before freezing temperatures arrive. This makes your plants super vulnerable to frost damage and root rot from winter moisture.

I learned this the hard way when my neighbor (who’s been growing lavender for 20 years) explained why half my plants looked like brown sticks come spring. Apparently, lavender needs at least 6-8 weeks of growing time after pruning to prepare for winter.

Perfect Timing for Different Lavender Varieties

English lavender varieties like Hidcote and Munstead should be pruned right after their first flush of blooms in early summer. I usually aim for late June or early July in my zone 6 garden.

French and Spanish lavender are trickier because they’re not as cold hardy. These tender varieties need pruning in late spring, around May, so they have the entire growing season to recover.

The key is giving your plants enough time to develop new growth before temperatures drop.

How Late Pruning Ruins Next Year’s Blooms

This was probably the most frustrating part of my pruning mistake. The plants that survived my October massacre barely bloomed the following summer.

Lavender sets its flower buds on old wood from the previous year’s growth. When you prune too late, you’re essentially cutting off next year’s flower show.

Plus, stressed plants put all their energy into survival instead of flower production. I ended up with sad, sparse blooms instead of the abundant purple clouds I was expecting.

Regional Timing Considerations

Living in the Midwest taught me that timing varies dramatically by location. My friends in Minneapolis need to finish pruning by mid-June because their growing season is shorter.

Meanwhile, gardeners in Atlanta can get away with pruning into August since they have a longer warm period for recovery.

Zone 7 and warmer areas have more flexibility, but zones 5-6 require strict timing. I now mark my calendar religiously after learning this lesson.

Warning Signs Your Lavender Isn’t Winter-Ready

After my pruning disaster, I learned to recognize when lavender plants aren’t prepared for cold weather. Soft, green growth that hasn’t had time to harden off is a dead giveaway.

Healthy, winter-ready lavender should have slightly woody stems and established foliage.

If you see lots of tender new shoots in late fall, your plant probably won’t make it through a harsh winter. The stems should feel firm, not squishy or overly flexible.

Brown or yellowing leaves after late pruning are another red flag that your plant is struggling to prepare for dormancy.

Ready to learn about the second deadly mistake that’s probably even worse than bad timing? Click the next button below to discover why cutting into old, woody growth is like performing surgery with a butter knife – and how to avoid turning your beautiful lavender into a pile of dead sticks.

What do you think?

Written by The Home Growns

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